It's a peculiarly Nu Zild affliction that crowing about achievement is tantamount to throwing up on someone's shoe.
But I'm obviously in the final throes of pregnancy hormones and as such seem to be glowing in all the right places.
Not that I've actually won anything, yet, and I may not. But my winelist has been nominated for "Outstanding Winelist' at this year's Lewisham Awards (a sort of Oscars for the Auckland hospitality industry) and I'm pleased and proud and glowing that the list I've nutured has a little recognition.
Having said that. It's still not the list I'd love it to be. I've woken up to far too much economic reality over the past year and the romance of writing a crafted, creative list gets dulled by figures and margins.
Still, here it is for scrutiny.
I'm a bit terrified of this bit but here goes........
Wine list
Showing posts with label wine list. Show all posts
Showing posts with label wine list. Show all posts
Wednesday, April 29, 2009
Sunday, April 5, 2009
A wine free life as I write the new list
You'd be forgiven for thinking that I'd given up even tasting wine as my posts slow to a trickle and the bump grows bigger.
In truth I'm tasting quite a bit as the pressure mounts to leave my restaurant in a 'good place' wine-wise whilst I swan off on Maternity leave. I've timed it quite well in the Nu Zillund wine calendar all things considered as this is about the time most Sommelier turn their attention to winter lists anyway.
I'm focusing on building the Pinot Noir and Syrah sections as many Pinots are rolling vintage about now plus enthusiasm for Syrah continues to build locally with many NZ Syrah helpfully keeping step with increasing quality. Also Syrah, as a rule, offers more value for money than Pinot. And this seems topical and necessary.
Just as the economy continues to dominate in the media it remains top of mind for me also. It seems so pertinent to maintain a list of wines that people can afford. To source wines that over-deliver at their price point so that a carefully chosen indulgence feels worth it to my guests. And to have all staff able and confident with gentle encouragement towards the lesser known but highly tasty drops. Actually, this is important all of the time, but doubly so if it starts looking like wine is at risk of being too much of a luxury for most.
In truth I'm tasting quite a bit as the pressure mounts to leave my restaurant in a 'good place' wine-wise whilst I swan off on Maternity leave. I've timed it quite well in the Nu Zillund wine calendar all things considered as this is about the time most Sommelier turn their attention to winter lists anyway.
I'm focusing on building the Pinot Noir and Syrah sections as many Pinots are rolling vintage about now plus enthusiasm for Syrah continues to build locally with many NZ Syrah helpfully keeping step with increasing quality. Also Syrah, as a rule, offers more value for money than Pinot. And this seems topical and necessary.
Just as the economy continues to dominate in the media it remains top of mind for me also. It seems so pertinent to maintain a list of wines that people can afford. To source wines that over-deliver at their price point so that a carefully chosen indulgence feels worth it to my guests. And to have all staff able and confident with gentle encouragement towards the lesser known but highly tasty drops. Actually, this is important all of the time, but doubly so if it starts looking like wine is at risk of being too much of a luxury for most.
Friday, December 12, 2008
It is one of the strange laws of ordering wine in restaurants that certain indicators will sway a client towards one particular wine despite their never having encountered that wine before.
The laws for Pinot Noir at Christmas functions seem to dictate that it must not exceed a $90 price tag, but neither must it fall below $80 either. This being some nominal indication of the right level of quality. They also appear to dictate that the wine must hail from Central Otago, this being the only place that any self respecting Aucklander will consider as the birthplace of PineNwah.
With this in mind, and having been blind-sided by a price hike of the wine that was serving in this particular catagory, I had to search out a Central Otago Pinot that would fit the bill. This is my least favourite part of wine-list-writing. It is wine as business and commodity and shuns the romance that I would prefer.
Two wines were called to attention. The right price, the right provenance.
The Nanny Goat Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 is a strange beast. Untypical to say the least and displaying a sexy, feral mushroom and barnyard funk to the nose. A Pinot Noir of horse manure overlaying plummy red fruits. A little bit obscure but silky and structured nonetheless.
The Wild Earth Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007 is upfront with a sweet caramel hint to the nose and plenty of muscular dark blackberry. Certainly less complex but a straightforward hit of fruit and flesh that will please whilst wearing a silly hat.
I sound cynical. I guess I am. I console myself with the fact that at least the Wild Earth doesn't display the sappy aspect that puts me off so many of his brothers.
And despite my preference for the Nany Goat's varietal charms a brief tasting with the crew confirms the Wild Earth as the more pleasing of the two. So Wild Earth it is.
The laws for Pinot Noir at Christmas functions seem to dictate that it must not exceed a $90 price tag, but neither must it fall below $80 either. This being some nominal indication of the right level of quality. They also appear to dictate that the wine must hail from Central Otago, this being the only place that any self respecting Aucklander will consider as the birthplace of PineNwah.
With this in mind, and having been blind-sided by a price hike of the wine that was serving in this particular catagory, I had to search out a Central Otago Pinot that would fit the bill. This is my least favourite part of wine-list-writing. It is wine as business and commodity and shuns the romance that I would prefer.
Two wines were called to attention. The right price, the right provenance.
The Nanny Goat Central Otago Pinot Noir 2006 is a strange beast. Untypical to say the least and displaying a sexy, feral mushroom and barnyard funk to the nose. A Pinot Noir of horse manure overlaying plummy red fruits. A little bit obscure but silky and structured nonetheless.
The Wild Earth Central Otago Pinot Noir 2007 is upfront with a sweet caramel hint to the nose and plenty of muscular dark blackberry. Certainly less complex but a straightforward hit of fruit and flesh that will please whilst wearing a silly hat.
I sound cynical. I guess I am. I console myself with the fact that at least the Wild Earth doesn't display the sappy aspect that puts me off so many of his brothers.
And despite my preference for the Nany Goat's varietal charms a brief tasting with the crew confirms the Wild Earth as the more pleasing of the two. So Wild Earth it is.
Thursday, June 12, 2008
Updating the list
It's that time of year when the Sommelier's mind turns to updating the wine list. Many of the new vintages are beginning to be released and there's natural attrition happening as popular varietals like Pinot Gris start to run out. Also, with the colder weather comes smaller numbers and a chance to breathe and take stock.
In order to shape the new list it's necessary to reflect on what has sold well and try and predict the trends to come.
Champagne is a tower of strength. The fact that French wine authorities are expanding the boundaries of what can legitimately be called Champagne indicates the huge worldwide thirst for this status, style and taste - New Zealand Methode's deliciousness notwithstanding. Not that local bubbles have a hard time selling.
Riesling continues to under-perform. Or rather, it continues to not sell as much as we'd like, despite a haphazard popularity. Sauvignon Blanc seems to have lost out with even it's die hard fans to the flossy, johnny-come-lately Pinot Gris (That is the ratio of middle-aged, striped suit wearing business men who order Sauvignon Blanc as the 'starter' at lunch is dipping). Viognier experienced a surge during the summer but seems to be back in a lull. And Chardonnay. Well Chardonnay is a funny one as there's a part of the public out there that wants it 'buttery' despite most winemakers giving up on the full MLF. (I had one gentleman who wanted "a white wine for red wine drinkers").
Pinot Noir sells itself, especially if it's from Central Otago (especially if it's from 3 year old vines on a slope of a hill in the valley and at the bargain price of $38 per bottle................ trade, or better yet if it's got a nice dark colour and a plummy flavour...............................a bit like Merlot.......................................).Syrah has firmly implanted itself in the public's mind and it's seldom that the Syrah/Shiraz question gets asked any more. If anything we could do with more Syrah on the list. Bordeaux style blends have spent far too long out in the cold and seem to be making a slow return to favour. And all the fun 'other red' varietals get a look in too as finally we start to see the breadth of wines here in New Zealand that other countries have enjoyed for years.
So that's the state of play.
What to do next?
In order to shape the new list it's necessary to reflect on what has sold well and try and predict the trends to come.
Champagne is a tower of strength. The fact that French wine authorities are expanding the boundaries of what can legitimately be called Champagne indicates the huge worldwide thirst for this status, style and taste - New Zealand Methode's deliciousness notwithstanding. Not that local bubbles have a hard time selling.
Riesling continues to under-perform. Or rather, it continues to not sell as much as we'd like, despite a haphazard popularity. Sauvignon Blanc seems to have lost out with even it's die hard fans to the flossy, johnny-come-lately Pinot Gris (That is the ratio of middle-aged, striped suit wearing business men who order Sauvignon Blanc as the 'starter' at lunch is dipping). Viognier experienced a surge during the summer but seems to be back in a lull. And Chardonnay. Well Chardonnay is a funny one as there's a part of the public out there that wants it 'buttery' despite most winemakers giving up on the full MLF. (I had one gentleman who wanted "a white wine for red wine drinkers").
Pinot Noir sells itself, especially if it's from Central Otago (especially if it's from 3 year old vines on a slope of a hill in the valley and at the bargain price of $38 per bottle................ trade, or better yet if it's got a nice dark colour and a plummy flavour...............................a bit like Merlot.......................................).Syrah has firmly implanted itself in the public's mind and it's seldom that the Syrah/Shiraz question gets asked any more. If anything we could do with more Syrah on the list. Bordeaux style blends have spent far too long out in the cold and seem to be making a slow return to favour. And all the fun 'other red' varietals get a look in too as finally we start to see the breadth of wines here in New Zealand that other countries have enjoyed for years.
So that's the state of play.
What to do next?
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