Esk Valley Merlot Hawke's Bay 2004

Does this winery make a bad wine? If so I've yet to taste one. Esk Valley have a wide ranging portfolio, including what was the only planting of Verdelho, until the sneaky tykes at Villa Maria poozled some, somewhat to Gordon Russell's chargrin?

But it was the 2004 Merlot that emerged from the cellar to go with Dad's roast lamb.

Upon opening this is all savoury, leathery cedar with dormant fruit but after an hour in the decanter it brightens up to purple notes of plums and smoke. The tannins so smooth as to be almost indistinguishable but for all that it is a plush, plump wine. A wine that defied my expectations as I'm starting to find many 2004 Hawke's Bay reds showing signs of too much vintage heat and too little restraint. However after that initial prune-y whiff the Esk Valley demonstrates an underlying freshness. Comfortable rather than impressive but who doesn't like a little comfort (or a lot?). a 3 (ah go on 4...) glass wine.

Alluviale 2005

There were other wines in the birthday round-up. None of them as evocative as Orton Gewurztraminer but all of them wonderful, memory defining drops. As the clock struck midnight and I entered my 34th year we toasted with the Alluviale 2005.

This second wine from the Blake Family Vineyard is Blake Family all over. On opening it is taut, direct and masculine merlot with kauri-dust-like tannins amongst the berry fruits. Shy of sweetness but not austere the palate balances (Gimblett) gravel minerality and blackcurrant flower. Serious tasting and in need of time and air.
A 3 glass wine

A definition

ex·u·ber·ant /ɪgˈzubərənt/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[ig-zoo-ber-uhnt] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation –adjective

1.	effusively and almost uninhibitedly enthusiastic; lavishly abundant: an exuberant welcome for the hero.

2.	abounding in vitality; extremely joyful and vigorous.

3.	extremely good; overflowing; plentiful: exuberant health.

4.	profuse in growth or production; luxuriant; superabundant: exuberant vegetation.

This was a treat! A generous taste of the Hatton Estate Tahi 2004 made polishing piles and piles of glasses so much more bearable. The first thing that struck me was youthful, exuberant clarity. It was as clear as the fruit aromas and flavours, a personality as defining as any list of fruit and wood. Having said that the fruit is remarkable in its 'clean-as-a-whistle-ness'. Purity of blackcurrant overlaying the subtle cigar box smoke. The tannins rest in the wine in an easy fashion, giving structure without ever dominating the palate. Marvellous stuff. Exciting now but with every sign of growing up into a fine, upstanding wine of character.

Also notable for the fact that, after a night expounding tableside the superiority of New Zealand's attempts at Bordeaux blends when they are dominant in the Merlot, this wine is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant but highly successful.