Esk Valley Merlot Hawke's Bay 2004

Does this winery make a bad wine? If so I've yet to taste one. Esk Valley have a wide ranging portfolio, including what was the only planting of Verdelho, until the sneaky tykes at Villa Maria poozled some, somewhat to Gordon Russell's chargrin?

But it was the 2004 Merlot that emerged from the cellar to go with Dad's roast lamb.

Upon opening this is all savoury, leathery cedar with dormant fruit but after an hour in the decanter it brightens up to purple notes of plums and smoke. The tannins so smooth as to be almost indistinguishable but for all that it is a plush, plump wine. A wine that defied my expectations as I'm starting to find many 2004 Hawke's Bay reds showing signs of too much vintage heat and too little restraint. However after that initial prune-y whiff the Esk Valley demonstrates an underlying freshness. Comfortable rather than impressive but who doesn't like a little comfort (or a lot?). a 3 (ah go on 4...) glass wine.

Out of wine sorts

I've been feeling at odds with my favourite tipple and it's coalesced into a hiatus in imbibing (but not, it appears in verbosity). I've been scratching around in piles of wine notes looking for inspiration and stumbled across a quote from Eric Asimov which appeared months back on January 25, 2008 in the New York Times online.

He says
"I prefer oddball, idiosyncratic lists that can’t contain the passion and individual tastes of the sommelier." (Read the rest of the article here)

It's a comforting thought that someone likes wine-lists that run to the left of centre and especially so when I look at the list I'm creating and see those little known gems that might just languish there if I don't spend my nights cheerleading and championing.

The summer list is almost done. It doesn't have this wine on it but this is definitely something that gets the juices flowing.

I sipped the Fromm Clayvin Marlborough Chardonnay 2004 at Euro Bar a wee while back and it was a developed, harmonious drop somewhat at odds with the brash, waterfront location. It smelt like lemons and wet leaves with the oak influence giving just the merest suggestion of cloves. Integrated, fragrant and delicious. a 4 glass wine.

Church Road Cuve Series Chardonnay Hawke's Bay 2004

Sometimes you have to back yourself even when those around you are very unsure.

I can understand the reservations that stemmed from the peculiar smell that wafted off this Chardonnay. It put me in mind of the smell of wet clay which is, well, poo-ey. But the palate was enough to convince me that the Cuve Chardonnay was misunderstood rather than off. The palate was seamless and fine, long and elegant and then that smell would flutter out. It put me in mind of a tastefully dressed beauty letting off gas which is a fitting human image for a wine that is less than ice-queen-like in its poise and grace.

Tasted today, 5 days after opening, the wine has lost none of its grace but the stinky nuances are diminished to a background mineral complexity.

A roasted hazlenut and clay mineral character on the nose and an attractive straw colour suggest the Cuve Series Chardonnay is still developing despite 4 years in the bottle. The palate is sophisticated, mixing sourdough, lanolin, lemon and grapefruit together in a seamless fashion with a background of smoke, sawdust and just a hint of vanilla. Seriously classy with enough humanity to prevent it from feeling rarified. Just like a lady 'delicately' blowing off....
A 5 glass wine (after some serious decanting)

The Helen Hunt

of Pinot Noir.
The Crab Farm Hawke's Bay Pinot Noir 2004 is a classic ruby colour but opaque in the glass and the aromas are intriguing; mulberry, red licorice, plum, sweet bayleaf and nutmeg. Balanced, plush tannins distinguish the palate, set against some lively acidity this is a wine of structure and harmony. After some time in the glass strains of milk chocolate mingle with a lingering suggestion of gritty baking spice. At 4 years of age this is mellowed, resolved and graceful. Faceted if slightly flawed. Not beautiful but not unattractive and refreshingly modest.
A 4 glass wine.

'O' Chardonnay 2004

I remember a time when I thought the Montana 'Initial' Series (of which the 'O' - Ormond Chardonnay is one) was the pinnacle of wine-making chic.

That time was 1996 - or so - and that is a long time ago in my wine education. But I do remember the frisson of excitement at having something so exclusive to sell in the restaurant. And the innovative labels, with their minimalist design, were something new and different in a sea of busy, European-harking-esque Nu Zillund bottles.

So... How does it stack up today? 12 years on. With me older, uglier and (not much ) wiser

'O' Ormond Estate Gisborne Chardonnay 2004
The tropical fruity Gisborne flavours have been kept in check in this fairly savoury beastie. At 4 years bottle age this is giving up grilled nuts on the nose and first impressions scream lanolin and banana. It's doing a sweet yoghurt dance around the primary fruit which finally, after much warming up, turns out to be grilled pineapple.

Holding its own!!

Told

I've just been prompted by Rich to note this wine down and I don't blame him really. We've enjoyed the Villa Maria Keltern Chardonnay 2004 a number of times over the years. One wet night in Rotorua stands out ( and that was back in 2006 when the wine was fairly young). The 'Keltern' is like a glowing beacon that proves just how good Villla Maria wines can be. Everything, from their standard supermarket range to the elite single vineyard wines (of which Keltern is one) is consistent and well made with occasional flashes of brilliance.

We lucked onto this bottle in the same bin-end sale that offered up the Pinot Blanc and it was "everything and more". The notes are slim but evocative..

Mersault-like almond on the nose. Figs on the palate. With tingling acidity and blow-you-away baking spice.

A very short description of a very evolved, complex wine and utter proof that Nu Zillund can make gorgeous Chardonnay that doesn't tend towards 'old fridge'.

A definition

ex·u·ber·ant /ɪgˈzubərənt/ Pronunciation Key - Show Spelled Pronunciation[ig-zoo-ber-uhnt] Pronunciation Key - Show IPA Pronunciation –adjective

1.	effusively and almost uninhibitedly enthusiastic; lavishly abundant: an exuberant welcome for the hero.

2.	abounding in vitality; extremely joyful and vigorous.

3.	extremely good; overflowing; plentiful: exuberant health.

4.	profuse in growth or production; luxuriant; superabundant: exuberant vegetation.

This was a treat! A generous taste of the Hatton Estate Tahi 2004 made polishing piles and piles of glasses so much more bearable. The first thing that struck me was youthful, exuberant clarity. It was as clear as the fruit aromas and flavours, a personality as defining as any list of fruit and wood. Having said that the fruit is remarkable in its 'clean-as-a-whistle-ness'. Purity of blackcurrant overlaying the subtle cigar box smoke. The tannins rest in the wine in an easy fashion, giving structure without ever dominating the palate. Marvellous stuff. Exciting now but with every sign of growing up into a fine, upstanding wine of character.

Also notable for the fact that, after a night expounding tableside the superiority of New Zealand's attempts at Bordeaux blends when they are dominant in the Merlot, this wine is Cabernet Sauvignon dominant but highly successful.