The first Chardonnay

I have to confess a real love for Chardonnay. But of a very particular sort. It would be wrong to say that I prefer them with as little intervention as possible as I'm not over fond of the New World 'un-oaked' style. More often than not they call the word "flabby" to mind. Or "insipid" (but I've levelled that criticism at Pinot Gris often enough to make it inextricably tied to Nu Zillund Gris). But neither do I like a Chardonnay that's been mucked about with over much.

It's a tightrope.

Reviewing my notes reveals a number of Chardonnay that have flirted with my tastebuds and achieved that startling and and evocative combination of terroir and winemaking that elevates them beyond the ordinary.

At the silly money end of the spectrum there's the marvelous, weighty Bell Hill Chardonnay or the cult status Penfolds Yattarna Chardonnay. But neither of these really fit in with the baby budget.

This leaves two special but basically affordable Chardonnay in my mind and it's hard to pick between them. In the end parochialism edges the Shaw + Smith Chardonnay out of contention. But it's a close run thing. I love the balanced exhuberance of the cool climate Adelaide Hills wine. It performs exactly that trick of exhibiting place whilst evoking the personality of the winemaker.

However, the Villa Maria Keltern Chardonnay will be the bottle I'm asking for after the littlest Sommelier pops into the world. I believe I may be being sentimental but it conjures up an almost Mersault-like almondine nose without sacrificing spine-tingling acidity and all at a very reasonable (of course - it's Villa Maria) price.

And it's inseparable with a rainy night in Rotorua a long time ago when Rich and I first met.....