Thursday, January 24, 2008

More on an Anomaly


Given Nu Zild's reputation as a premium Pinot Noir producer emanating from Central Otago with the instigators Marlborough and Martinborough bringing up the rear.... And "whine country" Hawke's Bay excelling in the forgotten wine that is the Merlot, this superb High Country Pinot Noir from John Hancock's Trinity Hill is definitely an "incongruity or inconsistency".

Not that there aren't other producers trying to grow Pinot Noir in this part of the country. Even given the tricksy growing issues and crop levels it's more saleable than unfashionable Bordeaux imitators. But this would be the first one I've tried that really nails the varietal without reservations.

so then... my note from 12:30am last night.

Ruby-violet with enough clarity to read through. Hugely varietal. Sour black cherry and plum with a hint of herbs. Really aromatic. Allspice. Little tight. Second sniff is all game meat and bitter chocolate but not muddled and a lovely pure expression. Complexity from blending a number of different clones of Pinot Noir. So aromatic I keep nosing about the glass. Not carnal but definitely alluring. Bringing the ubiquitous, romantic French movie scene to life where the hero inhales the perfume from the nape of the heroine's neck..... The tannins may velvet-out but at this stage they are softly firm (aha! another anomaly) and similar to the Mountford 2004. After a whole glass the acidity stats to bite, giving weight to the idea that this still needs a little time. The finish is reminiscent of the creamy, sweetness of lightly roasted milky coffee.

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