Thursday, January 17, 2008

In a (happy?) cheap wine slump

I'd be lying if I said I hadn't been drinking wine but unfortunately they aren't the sort of wines that inspire much note taking or contemplation. Mostly these are the sort of wines that you have with dinner when you're just having dinner or after work as a drink that's just a drink. I once read in a Nigel Slater cookbook that in his opinion you should never serve yourself a lesser wine that one you would happily take to share with friends - just because you were dining alone. I found this to be good advice in the past and bought extravagently, accordingly.

Now, unfortunately, fiscal responsibility has replaced youthful devil-may-care-ness and my eye is more often caught by the cheerful yellow sticker advertising the reduced price than the label itself. Sad but true. We do try to marry value with the most interesting labels we can find and this can lead to very long periods spent in the wine aisle of the supermarket as we try and avoid the larger commercial brands (often propped up with residual or added sugar to appeal the 'average' consumer palate).

Here then, is an overview of what we've been drinking. Everyday wines, everyday prices. All under the magical $20 mark and usually on special for less than $15.

Stoneleigh Marlborough Chardonnay 2006
I'm not sure when this winery moved, in my estimation, from a boutique prodicer to a commercial producer and I'm sure that mental shift is purely arbitrary given the size of their production in worldwide terms. They are no longer what I consider to be a 'restaurant wine' however and I haven't tried this for some years. It's a pale gold and fairly oaky for an inexpensive Chardonnay whilst still showing aromas of white peach, tangerine and cloves with a little floral hit. A citrus vanilla mouthful and here I will stop looking for too much. It's varietal and good enough.

Giesen Marlborough Chardonnay 2005
This was on a very good special and the little yellow sticker by the price was like a flag to a bull. The first whiff was of cashew nut with the fruit lying a bit dormant although after nosing around I uncovered some melon and citrus. It was quite rich and mouthfilling, tasting of summer lemons and toast sprinkled with cinammon. On the whole quite balanced with enough fruit and oak working in harmony to make this fun, easy drinking Chardonnay. Summer fruit, summery wine. Lovely supermarket price.

Maven Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc 2006
I remember when Rich and I first spotted this label at La Barrique in Auckland. Tom was talking it up and it certainly looks pretty on the shelf with the 4 or so different label designs. I believe the new 2007 vintage has done fairly well in the awards rounds but here was the 2006 retailing for just $13 on special. Guess they didn't sell out of the older vintage yet. It seemed like a good bet, however, as I've been enjoying my NZ sauvignons with one or two years bottle age. Especially now so many wine makers are starting to use a touch of oak and/or lees stirring thus complex-ifying our simple Marlborough style.

Mike Just is the winemaker at Maven and you can smell it on the nose. I always find something slightly feral in his wines. Not necessarily in a bad sense but a definite pongy presence. It's a greeny straw colour and despite my love of older Sauvignon and the use of oak in the wine I think this is about as long as you would want to leave it on the shelf. Although this is not true of a local drop we have been drinking a great deal. We have been taking advantage somewhat of the Askerne winery and the amazing value offered by the Askerne Sauvignon Blanc 2005 which they sell at the cellar door for $10. This might seem like false economy but the wine is perfectly poised. So resolved. I mean, y'know, tastes great and is drinking beautifully NOW.

But back to the Maven. It has a pungent, sweaty, green ,fruity aspect all wrapped up in dried mint. Bitter lemon and sweat that settles into blackcurrant leaf. Another decent drop given that cheerful yellow sticker.

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